“Evangeline” Sew-Along: Sewing Your Yokes & Waistband

Today we are going to tackle our Yokes & Waistbands on “Evangeline”! So let’s jump right in and get started!

yoke 1

First, place your front yokes and back yoke right sides together and pin at the shoulders.

yoke 2

Sew across the shoulder seam (1/2″ seam allowance) and then either mock overlock or serge your seam allowance edges to finish. *You can add clear elastic to the shoulders along the seam allowance to keep the shoulders from stretching.

yoke 3

Next lay the bodice right side up (as shown above), we are going to tackle the neckline next.

yoke 4

Take your neckline binding and press in half lengthwise. Place the raw edges of the neckline binding along the raw edge of the neckline and pin.
yoke 5

Continue you pin along the entire neckline. *You will have some extra neckline binding at the ends. Sew the neckline binding to the bodice with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

yoke 6

Trim the seam allowance to 1/8″ make sure not to cut through your stitching. This next part can be a little tricky. For this one the knit binding will not be seen, you can leave it exposed as well.

yoke 7

Press the neckline binding away from the bodice and then flip to the wrong side.

yoke 8

Flip the neckline binding toward the wrong side and pin.

yoke 9

From the right side you should not be able to see any of the binding. Topstitch the binding in place 1/8″ to 1/4″ from the neckline edge. *If you choose to do an exposed binding, follow the same steps except instead of trimming your seam allowance, finish the edges. Press the binding away from the bodice, making sure that the seam allowance is pressed to the bodice wrong side. Topstitch in place.

trimming binding1

The excess binding at the bottom yoke needs to be trimmed off to match the yoke line.

aligning front notches

Nice clean finish. Align your notches with the right side over the top of the left side of the front yoke. **note: if making your muslin this is a great place to make an adjustment if it is to wide or low cut. This dress needs a tank top or cami underneath unless you’re into really deep v’s.

basting and front waistband

Baste 3/8″ from the edge in between your notches to secure the front yoke shut. Next take your front waistband and align the top edge to the bottom edge of the front yoke, right sides together, pin and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

back waistband

Repeat the process with the back waistband pressing the seam allowances toward the waistband.

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