Let’s get to the exciting part part of our “Evangeline” Sew-Along, cutting it out! I strongly suggest that you make a muslin using inexpensive fabric. Why? Because it will help you to make adjustments to create the best fitting “Evangeline” for your body. Really there are very few patterns out there that will fit amazingly on the first go. It doesn’t mean that it is a bad pattern necessarily, it just means that you need to make the adjustments to make it work for your body. 🙂 (Just my two cents on that!)
“Evangeline” has lots of places for adjusting. The pattern pieces are marked with shorten and lengthen lines. The skirts, waistband and sleeve can all be shortened or lengthened to adjust as necessary to achieve the look you want. This is why making a muslin is an extra, but very worthwhile step. Alright onto cutting!
If you are doing any contrasting panels, you will be working with different knits. For best results use similar weight and drape. For my example I am using a quilted jersey, which is not super drapey, but should be warm! As well as a black knit for the front waistband. I really like this in softer, draped knits, but I wanted to experiment with a heavier winter ready version. Make sure that your fabric is pre-washed and pressed.
I started by cutting out the front and back skirt on fold.
Make sure that you are aligning the pattern pieces with the direction of greatest stretch and grainlines. Check your arrows and really take time to layout out your pieces. The best results really do start with taking time cutting, the final results will always turn out better. I often layout all my pieces and move them around before committing to cutting. Use the cutting guide in the instructions as a guide.
Repeat with your remaining pieces and pay special attention to your front yoke piece. It will not look straight not your fabric. Use the grainlines to keep it straight.
Scissors vs. Rotary Cutters, Pins vs. Pattern Weights
Always the great debate. Different situations call for different things. I am a pattern weight addict for most things but pins (pinned in the seam allowance is something I like to do with wovens). I love to use my fabric scissors for heavier knits like what I was using above for me it is more accurate. Anything slippery, I usually differ to the rotary cutter.
Either way go slow, take your time, and make sure you cut all the notches (front yoke and sleeve)! Tomorrow, it’s time to complete our yoke (shoulders and neckline), it is the longest part of sewing “Evangeline” and after that it will be easy peasy!