Day 5 of the “Charlotte” Sew-Along: Applying Bias Facings & Hemming

Welcome to the last day of the “Charlotte” Sew-Along! We are going to be finishing up our top, YAY! Just in time for the weekend.

Our next step is to attach the bias facing to the side armscyes and back. I am using a sample fabric so you can see the steps a little more clearly on how to sew the bias facing. bias facing11. Pin your bias facing right sides together along the raw edges of one armscye continuing across the back (make sure your back yoke is still against your back bodice), and continuing until you reach the other end of your armscye. Sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance and trim seam allowance to 1/4″

2. Turn your bias facing to the wrong side fold the top edge down to the center. (*your back yoke will not be laying on the bodice)

3. Fold your bias facing to the center as you can see in photo 4, if you flipped your bodice piece to the right side your bias would still be showing.

bias facing 24. Fold the bias down again. it is now on the completely on the wrong side of the garment with all raw edges encased.

5. Pin the bias facing in place.

6. This is how it would look from the side (showing all the layers).

7. Edge stitch along bias facing 3/8″ from garment edge.

KS1000 back yoke binding

This is how the back will look when it is finished. Now it’s time for the neckline and straps.

Take the remaining piece of bias facing and find the center by folding it in half. Find the center of your neckline by folding in half. Match the centers right sides together and pin. *This step will be using the same steps as above.*

KS1000 neckline binding

Sew along the neckline only with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

KS1000 neckline binding 2

Trim seam allowance to 1/4″.

KS1000 neckline binding3

KS1000 neckline binding4

Fold neckline bias facing in the same manner as the armscyes and back bodice.

KS1000 neckline binding5

Fold your bias facing in half encasing the raw edges to create your straps.

KS1000 neckline strap1

KS1000 neckline strap2

Pin as you fold the bias facing.

KS1000 neckline strap3Edgestitch in the same manner as the armscyes and back bodice, starting at one end of the strap continuing along the neckline and then onto the other strap. Then edgestitch along the other side of the strap continuing along the neckline and then onto the other strap to finish creating your straps.

Next pin your straps to your back yoke and try on. Adjust as necessary to get a flat finish.

adjusting straps1

Since they go in at the sides you would actually want to pin them along there. I just moved them to the side when I took it off and leave it to me to wear a neon sports bra and random skirt on the day I was fitting this. My mom got a good laugh!

adjusting straps 2Simply insert, the straps into the openings in the back yoke and secure with a stitch across each one.  Hem as desired.

KS1000 checking fitThen you are ready to wear it out and about! I am waiting for a storm to pass so I can get the photo shoot done for the top be on the lookout later tonight or tomorrow morning to see my new “Charlotte” in action!

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