Day 3 of the “Charlotte” Sew-Along: Making a Muslin & Fit Adjustments

If you decided to make a muslin for your “Charlotte” tunic, you will need to make sure that you have cut out the front and back bodice. We will be checking for fit at the bust, waist, hip as well as the length.

Start by placing your bodices right sides together and sewing the side seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance, back-stitching at each end. Optional: run a basting stitch along the neckline a 1/2″ from edge in order to clearly see where the final seam be.

Then try it on, here’s mine:

KS1000 muslin fitting

I didn’t worry about adding the yoke and straps because the straps are easily adjust in a fitting before attaching them to the back yoke.  I cut out a straight size 14. It’s a little snug at the bust (top arrow) and a little tight in the hips, hence the pulling towards the back (bottom arrow). I should have graded out to size 16 at the hips, but I have been losing quite a bit of weight recently, so I didn’t want to get too carried away.

To fix it, I did a really random easy fix, since I really didn’t need to add to much to the top. I just added a little bit by pivot on the center fold on both the front and back bodices. You can see in the photo below how I set it up.

KS1000 cutting out fashion fabric 2

I expect that I that I will be in the straight size 14 before I know it, otherwise I would have added a piece of paper to the pattern and graded out the necessary amount before cutting out my fashion fabric. Which is the proper way to make the adjustment. 🙂

As for length, I love this length as is because I am going to tuck the front part of the tunic in. Here’s where it gets exciting to customize. On the Front and Back Bodice are shorten and lengthen lines. “Charlotte” can easily become a dress, maxi dress, tank, or even a crop top!

For the examples below, I will be shortening and lengthening the top by 2″. Start by taking your pattern pieces and finding the shorten and lengthen lines:

shorten & lengthen sew along-01

Cut along the lines, creating 4 separate pieces:

shorten & lengthen sew along-02

Next we will shorten the “Charlotte” tunic:

shorten & lengthen sew along-03Measure on the bottom piece 2″ from cut edge and mark. Place the top of the pattern piece on the marked line. Tape your pieces together, even up the side seams using a ruler and pen, trim the excess. You now have your shortened “Charlotte” pattern pieces.

To lengthen the “Charlotte” Tunic:

shorten & lengthen sew along-04Add a piece of paper wider than your pattern pieces and at least 2″ longer than the desired amount you will be lengthen (i.e. for 2″ cut a 4″ piece of paper, for 4″ cut a 6″ piece of paper, etc.) Tape the top pattern piece to the paper. Measure from the bottom of the top pattern piece cut edge, 2″ and mark. Place the top of the bottom pattern piece on the marked line. Tape your pieces together, even up the side seams using a ruler and pen, trim the excess. You now have your lengthened “Charlotte” pattern pieces.

Now you’re ready to cut out your pattern from your fashion fabric (refer to this post for cutting instructions). Tomorrow, we will be creating our back yoke and sewing the side seams of our bodices together.

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