Day 2 of the “Charlotte” Sew-Along: Cutting Out & Making Bias Tape

charlotte muslin 1Today, we are going to start cutting out our “Charlotte” (I suggest making a muslin for your first “Charlotte” to check fit especially if you are falling between sizes. However, if you want to just start with your fashion fabric go for it! I will be going over the cutting instructions for both today)

If you are cutting a muslin you will need just your front and back bodice. Cut them on fold. (the places that we will check for fit are the bust and hip along with length):

charlotte muslin 2charlotte muslin 3charlotte muslin 4 After cutting out set the pieces aside. Tomorrow we will sew them up and check for fit and I will go over a few possible adjustments.

If you are ready to cut your fashion fabric lay out all your pieces. I am using pattern weights for mine and a rotary cutter to cut.

KS1000 cutting out fashion fabric 1KS1000 cutting fabric 2aKS1000 cutting out fashion fabric 3I have a front and back bodice along with two back yokes. **if you notice my pattern is not exactly on the fold line I need to add just a tiny bit at the hip for mine so I just shifted it a tiny bit to give me a little extra room in the hip.

After cutting set pieces aside. If you are using pre-made double fold bias tape, then we are done for today. If you are going to be making your own bias tape continue on with the rest of the post. 🙂 Using your left-over fabric, a cutting mat, ruler, and rotary cutter, will create our binding. KS1000 binding 1

  1. Start by laying out your fabric on the cutting mat. Find the 45º line.
  2. Place your ruler along the line and cut with the rotary cutter.
  3. You will end up something that looks like this.
  4. Place your ruler 2″ in from cut edge.KS1000 binding 2
  5. Cut along the ruler.
  6. You will end up with a 2″ strip cut on a 45º angle. Cut enough strips (usually 3-4) to create the correct length of bias tape needed for the project.
  7. To join your strips place them right sides together and perpendicular to each other. You will need to off set the strip by 1/4″.
  8. Pin the seam. KS1000 binding 3
  9.  Sew along the seam with 1/4″ seam allowance, back stitching at each end.
  10. Press seam allowance to one side and trim corners flush with strip edge.
  11. Run through a bias tape maker and press. (Or fold in half lengthwise and press, open and press edges in toward the center and press again.)
  12.  Press strip in half lengthwise. When open you should end up with something like the photo above.

Tomorrow, we will start sewing our “Charlotte” together!

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