Today, we are going to start cutting out our “Charlotte” (I suggest making a muslin for your first “Charlotte” to check fit especially if you are falling between sizes. However, if you want to just start with your fashion fabric go for it! I will be going over the cutting instructions for both today)
If you are cutting a muslin you will need just your front and back bodice. Cut them on fold. (the places that we will check for fit are the bust and hip along with length):
If you are ready to cut your fashion fabric lay out all your pieces. I am using pattern weights for mine and a rotary cutter to cut.
I have a front and back bodice along with two back yokes. **if you notice my pattern is not exactly on the fold line I need to add just a tiny bit at the hip for mine so I just shifted it a tiny bit to give me a little extra room in the hip.
After cutting set pieces aside. If you are using pre-made double fold bias tape, then we are done for today. If you are going to be making your own bias tape continue on with the rest of the post. 🙂 Using your left-over fabric, a cutting mat, ruler, and rotary cutter, will create our binding.
- Start by laying out your fabric on the cutting mat. Find the 45º line.
- Place your ruler along the line and cut with the rotary cutter.
- You will end up something that looks like this.
- Place your ruler 2″ in from cut edge.
- Cut along the ruler.
- You will end up with a 2″ strip cut on a 45º angle. Cut enough strips (usually 3-4) to create the correct length of bias tape needed for the project.
- To join your strips place them right sides together and perpendicular to each other. You will need to off set the strip by 1/4″.
- Pin the seam.
- Sew along the seam with 1/4″ seam allowance, back stitching at each end.
- Press seam allowance to one side and trim corners flush with strip edge.
- Run through a bias tape maker and press. (Or fold in half lengthwise and press, open and press edges in toward the center and press again.)
- Press strip in half lengthwise. When open you should end up with something like the photo above.
Tomorrow, we will start sewing our “Charlotte” together!