Genavieve Sew-Along Day 7: Finishing Front Bodice, Attaching the Front and Back Bodice, and Finishing the Back Yokes

Armhole1

Taking your prepared bias tape, (in this sample I am using a knit, but it doesn't have to be!) place it right sides together along one armhole of your front bodice and pin (your fold line should be 1/2" in). I like to leave a little over hang and trim at the end.

Armhole2

Sew with 1/2" seam along the armhole back-stitching at each end.

Armhole3

Press on the right side. Look how clean that edge is going to be!

Armhole4

Fold your bias tape over to the wrong side, there shouldn't be any bias tap showing on the right side bodice and pin.

Armhole5

Sew along the edge of the bias tape.

Armhole6

Flip over to the right side, trim your ends, and repeat the process with your other armhole and neckline.

Attaching the Front to the Back Bodice

Trimming

Start by taking your shoulders and trimming the seam allowance up at least an 1 1/2". (I like to cut at a 45 degree angle at the front and remove another 1" of the seam allowance in the side of the yoke. Your goal is to reduce bulk at the front shoulder seam! Make sure not to cut through your stitching.

Markingshoulder

After trimming the bulk out of the seam allowance, mark a 1/2" line across the shoulder in chalk or your favorite marking tool. This is a guide for your seam allowance.

Shoulderseampress1

Turn your front shoulder seam allowance up 1/2" using the line you made in chalk as a guide.

Shoulderseampress2

Press well. Make sure that you have pressed both the main fabric and lining up the 1/2". Next take your front bodice and insert it a 1/2" into the front shoulder.

Shoulderspinning

Pin your shoulder seam, making sure to catch all three layers. If your Front Bodice shoulder is not fitting well, run a gathering stitch 3/8" from the shoulder edge and gather until the shoulder fits into the opening.

Topstitching1

Now, we are going to be finishing your yoke and attaching the shoulders, start at your armhole side seam and edge stitch along the edge going towards your first shoulder, pivot and continue edge stitching along the shoulder catching all three layers.

Topstitching2

For Style #1 continue sewing all the way around until ending at the other armhole side seam.

For Style #2 you will continue sewing until you reach the Center back on one side of the yoke. Then repeat with the other side of the yoke.

For Style #3 you will just be edge stitching at the front shoulders, connecting the edge stitching that was already completed when assembling the yoke.

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